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Cat Hut - Construction

The Frame
You need a solid, flat area on which to build the hut. A handy wall to prop it against in the early stages is useful.

  1. Measure and cut the legs, remembering that two will be longer / shorter than the other two. Mark which are the front and back pairs.
  2. Measure where you want the floor to be, and screw supporting blocks using the same size wood as the legs at the required height - about 17" all round. Drill pilot holes through the blocks, which should be about 3 - 4" deep. (If you have a mitre-box, the blocks can be sawn at 45°, which makes them look less obtrusive).
  3. Saw out the corners of the floor to match the size of the legs, making flush 'slots'.
  4. Slot the floor onto the legs, so it rests on the blocks. You may need an assistant to hold the legs upright. Screw through the legs into the flooring, using long, thin screws.
  5. Turn the whole thing on its side and screw struts onto the bottom of the floor in line with the legs at the sides and back.
  6. Turn it back upright. Screw the internal wall frame struts into the back and sides. This will make it more stable.
    While doing this ensure that the legs remain vertical.
  7. Screw in the struts forming the leg-braces, half-way between the ground and floor level. It should now be rigid and stop flexing.
  8. Screw together and fit the struts forming the frame of the front wall, including measured spaces for the Window and entrance.

Cladding
Start with the back wall. The fencing boards will overlap horizontally, and need to look even all the way round. Before you nail anything on, ensure that you know how many are required per side.

  1. Cut two lengths to fit the back wall exactly - no overlaps at each end.
  2. Use these to count how many you need, by placing one at the bottom (which should come down to just below the strut on the underneath of the floor), and the second over it. Move the first up, and so on to see if your overlaps will bring a full board to the exact level of the top of the wall. Adjust your idea of by how much to overlap as necessary.
  3. Using the same boards, see how they will fit the sides and front. Note that the top board on each side will need to be trimmed to match the angle of the front-to-back height difference, and that the top board at the front will therefore need to be less wide, too.
  4. Cut and nail boards to the back, using the legs, bottom and top struts, and internal frame struts.

    Do not do the sides and front until you have installed the window - see The Front and follow the diagrams.
     
  5. Do the same for each side. Measure and nail the side cladding boards to that they come to the edge of the front legs, but overlap at the back to match the rear wall boards and cover the corners.
  6. Having done the window, it will become clear how the cladding should be fitted (the bottom lengths up to the window, then each side of the window, and finally all the way across again). The front cladding should line up with and cover the ends of the side boards, without leaving open corners.
  7. The 'Porch' is formed by simply fixing fencing board to the inner top and sides of the Entrance, to prevent rain blowing in and reduce draughts. This comes last.

Insulation and Internal Walls
You will notice the roof is not yet on. That's so you can still work on the inside of the hut without having to prop it open, and because you cannot lean over the back with the roof in place.

  1. Cut the polystyrene tiles and place them against the cladding in the gaps between internal struts. Do not try to pack the gaps tight, as some air circulation is necessary, but you will find the space takes two thicknesses of tile.   Do a side at a time, as the tiles are not fixed in.
  2. Cut the thinner plywood to size and screw it over the insulation onto the inner frameworks. (Remember to allow for the angle at the tops of the sides). Butt the corners of these walls as close together as possible.   The inside of the front will again be the fiddliest.
  3. Optional - see the photo on Page 1. Screw lengths of 'D' molding around the bottom of the walls. Pre-drill holes to prevent splitting and use appropriately small screws or nails. Do the same in the 3 corners to cover the wall joins, after trimming the lower ends of the molding to fit neatly.

And that's almost it!

Introduction & Materials
Page 1		 Dimension Diagrams
Page 2		 Front Diagram
Page 3		 Construction
Page 4		 Roof & Finishing
Page 5

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Design, photos & diagrams © Bob Downing 2000