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Cat Hut - The Front

The front section is the most complex. Unlike in the photo on Page 1, do it before putting on the side cladding!   The struts need to be fitted together before final fixing to the base and legs, and some screws will need to be off-centre to avoid conflicting with those coming in from the legs.   All internal struts should be flush with the outside of the legs and floor, as they are also used to nail on the cladding. The underneath of the flooring should have struts screwed around the edge, both to take cladding nails and to reinforce it should someone decide to pull the bottom of the cladding rather than the leg struts!

The actual dimensions of the window will depend upon your choice of what to use and how to fit it - see Page 4 for a better idea of scale. A suitable piece of glass will be at least 3mm with milled edges - see below. The opening will need lengths of smaller wood (about 1" square) round the inside to support the glass or Perspex, whichever method you adopt. Ideally these should be cut at 45° to fit together properly (as should the outer frames or 'D' molding).

A - Perspex

B - Glass

Screw the inner supports into the main framework. Measure the window space and saw a piece from your Perspex sheet. Place the window and outer supports (frames) in place and mark the outer supports. Drill holes through the frames to take the coach bolts (2 per side). Place them back against the window and mark through the holes. Drill holes through the Perspex. Place all back again, and mark through to the inner supports. Drill bolt holes in the inner supports. Fit all together, adding washers inside and out, and bolt together. Grease the washers to help prevent rust.

Screw the inner supports into the main framework. Measure the window space and obtain a piece of 3mm glass to fit. Put putty around the inner support (ie on the inside, behind the glass). Insert the glass and fix in place with tacks angled into the main frame. 2 tacks or nails per side. The hammer should rub against the glass, not knock against it. Remove surplus putty from inside. Optional: Screw pre-drilled 'D' molding round the window to make it neat. Ensure there is also a putty seal between the glass and wood molding.

Using Glass and Perspex
Though glass is the better option, unless you have access to 3mm or thicker glass and can cut and mill it, it is the more expensive.   Do not use glass from an unwanted picture - it will probably be only 2mm and not strong and safe enough for external use. Cats' paws are easily cut!

Perspex is not the easiest material to work, as it is thin, flexible and can be brittle. Before sawing and drilling, score the lines and holes fairly deeply therefore. Use a fine-toothed saw (a metal saw is fine) and set the drill to high speed. Don't force saw-cuts or the drill.